If you're looking to stop standing water on large paved, tarmacked, or concrete areas, installing channel drains (also called linear drainage or drainage channels) is a great solution. These drains can connect to an underground drainage pipe system. Channel drains are a legal requirement for most driveways larger than 5 square meters and are cost-effective and easy to install.
A channel drain provides a clean, organized, and straightforward solution for managing water flow. However, improper installation can lead to unsatisfactory results. If not done carefully, you might just shift the problem of standing water to another area. To help you avoid this, we’ve put together a detailed guide covering:
- What channel drains are and their common uses
- The various components involved in a typical installation
- A step-by-step 11-step installation process
- Important dos and don'ts
**Key Takeaways:**
- A channel drain is a long drain with a grate on one side to let water in and direct it away.
- It should be connected to an underground drainage system via the outlet on the channel drain.
- Proper installation, as outlined in our guide, is essential.
- Select the appropriate 'load rating' based on where the channel will be installed and the expected traffic.
Channel drains are sometimes referred to as linear or Aco drains. You've probably encountered them many times without realizing it. They are a discreet yet highly functional underground drainage solution used from small internal spaces to large industrial areas.
Despite their sleek appearance, channel drains can handle significant volumes of liquid. Their elongated shape provides substantial capacity, and their cross-section design effectively contains the flow from surrounding surfaces.
Black plastic or composite channel drains are the most popular choices. Grates can be made of PVC, composite, stainless steel, or occasionally a one-piece design for added strength.
A domestic channel drain typically has a load capacity of 5 tonnes, with a 1.25-tonne point load, making it ideal for driveways, paving, and patio areas. Commercial channel drains often have higher load capacities, suitable for heavy traffic areas like building entrances, car parks, and even airport runways.
**Connecting Channel Drains to Underground Pipes:**
There are two main methods to connect channel drains to an underground drainage system. One method uses outlets in the channel drain sections, which are cut and fitted with 110mm drainage pipes. Alternatively, an end outlet can be used to adapt the channel drain's end, pushing it into place and securing it with surrounding concrete.
**Typical Uses:**
Channel drains are versatile and used in a wide range of settings. In homes, they are often used for driveways, patios, pavements, and conservatories. In commercial settings, they are found in busy areas like building entrances, pedestrian zones, car parks, and railway platforms due to their ability to handle heavy loads.
**Channel Drain Components and Options:**
A standard installation usually includes six key components:
- **Drainage Channel Sections:** The main part of the installation, typically supplied in 1m lengths with slotted ends for quick assembly. Each section has an outlet for downward drainage into a 110mm sewer connection.
- **End Outlets:** Allow the channel drain to connect to an underground system at the end of the run.
- **Grating:** Made of PVC, composite, or stainless steel, providing a non-slip surface while allowing access to the channel below.
- **End Caps:** Seal off the highest end of the installation.
- **Quad Sections:** Connect up to four sections at 90-degree angles, useful for corners or T-junctions.
- **Sump Units:** Optional but useful for preventing blockages with a silt basket and odor control.
Components are generally purchased separately, though some brands like Clark Drain offer garage packs containing 3x 1m channel drain, an end cap, and an end outlet.
**Installation Guide:**
We’ve simplified the installation of domestic channel drains into 11 steps:
1. **Dig the Trench:** Ensure it’s deep enough for a 50mm sand base and wide enough for 100mm of concrete backfill on either side.
2. **String Line Placement:** Attach a string line to indicate the finishing height of the grate, 2mm lower than the surrounding surface.
3. **Fall Calculation:** Plan a 1:200 fall, 5mm for every meter of channel drain.
4. **Start Installation:** Begin at the lowest point, using full sections and cutting to length at the highest point.
5. **Section Connection:** Use the connecting slots to lock sections together, installing with the grate in place.
6. **End Cap Placement:** Fit an end cap to the final section before placing it in the trench.
7. **Seal Grooves:** Apply silicone sealant to the locating grooves for better durability.
8. **Connect to Drainage:** Attach the section to a 110mm underground drainage system.
9. **Protect Grates:** Cover grates with heavy-duty masking tape before pouring concrete.
10. **Pour Concrete:** Pour to create a 2mm height difference above the grate.
11. **Wait:** Allow at least 72 hours for the concrete to cure before applying pressure.
**Do’s and Don’ts:**
Following our guide closely will ensure success, but here are some critical tips:
- **DO Start at the Drain Point:** Starting elsewhere can lead to costly adjustments if there’s a miscalculation.
- **DO Ensure Adequate Drainage:** Without proper drainage, water can accumulate elsewhere on your property.
- **DO Mask Grates Properly:** Prevent concrete spillage that could block or damage the grate.
- **DON’T Direct Water Elsewhere:** Avoid disputes or legal issues by not impacting neighboring properties.
- **DON’T Exceed Load Ratings:** Doing so risks damage to the drain system and potential harm.
**Choosing the Right Products:**
Even with a perfect installation guide, selecting the right products is crucial. Look for quality materials and those compliant with BS-EN1433 standards.
**Load Ratings Explained:**
Different load ratings suit different scenarios:
- **A15 (3,372 lbs):** Pedestrian/Cyclist Areas
- **B125 (28,100 lbs):** Footways, Car Parks, Driveways
- **C250 (56,200 lbs):** Light Commercial Use
- **D400 (89,920 lbs):** High Traffic Roads, Forklift Zones
- **E600 (134,800 lbs):** Docks, Aircraft Pavements
- **F900 (202,320 lbs):** Heavy Duty Industrial Use
Whether you’re working on a home driveway or a commercial project, channel drains are a reliable solution when installed correctly.
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